Guide des meilleurs vins de France 2009

Domaine Philippe Gilbert

  • Les renardières white 2007 16/20
  • Menetou-Salon white 2007 14/20
  • Menetou-Salon white 2006 13,5/20
  • Les Renardières red 2006 15/20
  • Menetou-Salon red 2007 14/20
  • Menetou-Salon red 2006 13,5/20

This domain has been committed in organic farming and biodynamics since 2005. A pretty risky bet indeed for a vineyard situated in the Cher region, in the northern half of France. Philippe Gilbert has been advised by Jean-Philippe Louis, oenologist, since the quality boost given to the domain ten years ago.
The cuvée Les Renardières, from the oldest pinot noir and sauvignon vines, is partly made into wine and grown in new barrels of neighbouring origin, as indicate their Tronçais or Never stamps. The whites have gained in breath and iodine length since the last vintages. After an intense woody period, the reds are becoming more assertive, increasing in finesse without decreasing in maturity
The wines :
The sound maturity of the 2007 vintage stands out from the fleshy and flavoursome cuvée Domaine, which is the best expression of the appellation.
Les Renardières is increasing in finesse, minerality, with deep overtones of kumquat and bergamot orange. An excellent length in the mouth. The White 2006 is looser, without lacking of breath in the mouth. The Domaine Red 2007 has brilliant fruit overtones gracefully tingling on a dense material. In the mouth, les Renardières Red unfolds beautifully with overtones of liquorice and a subtle woodiness. Drink without delay.